AA Gill does the world's best restaurant reviews...

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AA Gill regrets his trip to Jamie Oliver?s Recipease


The Sunday Times
7 October
AA Gill says Jamie Oliver's Recipease in Notting Hill, London W11, is an object lesson in how to fail
After five minutes, I managed to order a drink. After 10, a waiter ?wandered over to take an order. The menu concept is finger food and trendy bits - none of it very demanding for a kitchen. All of it seemed to come as a surprise to the waiter. We ordered a burger, a pizza and a sort of compendium Middle Eastern salad, and, as we waited for another age, I watched the caf? unravel. There are masses of staff, aimlessly turning in circles, looking without seeing, like the first day at drama school, ?miming a wind farm. One of the secrets of judging how well a restaurant is running is to watch how many staff are walking without something in their hands. Waiters, like drug dealers, should always be carrying. Finally, a cook popped out and hissed for service. A waiter, not quite comprehending, floated over like a curious carp and came back with a tepid, congealing pizza that Flora said tasted like old pasta sauce on bread, and a burger. Nobody asked how I'd like the burger cooked, so they'd gone for the compromise of ?incinerated and cold.
Score: Food 1/5; Atmosphere 1/5

Posted By: Pixelman on June 13th 2013 at 18:55:28


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